Testing the Ascent

Taking delivery,

Taking delivery of new kit is like candy to a baby. We have just been issued with the new windproof from Paramo. (Fuera Ascent)

http://www.paramo.co.uk/en-gb/garments/detail/index.php?pgc=NIKWAXWINDPROOFJACKETFUERAASCENTUNISEX

So it's off for a test on the moors overlooking the goyt valley here in Derbyshire. (http://www.goytvalley.co.uk/)

Full kit on to get the right feel, full rescue pack. No point in testing the kit outside normal conditions. So rucksack on and alls well, straps locked and cross strap located across the chest to stop rucksack swing whilst on the move. Moving across the moor I start to zip pockets up and down. Really impressed here as there is no obstruction from the rucksack straps. The zippers go up and down, ok so what you say, well it is a big deal as most go up ish and down ish. Pretty annoying when your on the move trying to get access to your kit.

 

 

The next item on the agenda is the hood, oh the hood. This is usually an area were nightmares are found. Well not here, the hood fits over a helmet with no issues and fits snug to the head by the way of a side cord which pulls the neck in and a second cord at the rear which shapes and closes the hood down to fit your head.

Fitting snug with total comfort, wind speed here is about 25mph. Totally wind proof without a doubt.

 

Top feature as small as it is, is the zip covering at the top. A flap over prevents that itching caused by the sharp end of the zip runners, most annoying if not protected.

Easy to fit cuffs, simple and neat. 

So overall, superb wind resistance, fantastic access to the side pockets and internal clothing from the underarm vents. Hood and adjustments fit for purpose in every way. Looking forward to testing this jacket on a Callout, that should throw up more pros and cons, but at the moment a definite 10 out of 10.

Boggets to Bamford

ŶBeer or no beer that is the question, answer, NO BEER.

20:40 call out to Kinder, lost party of four. Ummmm off climbing tomoz, maybe a long one.

Yep it's a long one.

20:40 till 02:30.

Ding, phone goes. Deans picking up the van then off up to mine, Bamford edge is the location.

http://www.peakdistrict-nationalpark.com/gritstone-edges.aspx

Beyond lucky to live here, this place we live is amazing.

A bit worst for wear we arrive at Bamford edge, me I've been up on a shout on Kinder all night with Buxton mountain rescue team (http://www.buxtonmountainrescue.org.uk/call_outs/kinder-scout-plateau#more-9791)

Deans bin manchestering, so between us I don't think we r gonna make any amazing steps forward in the world of grit climbing, well maybe a bit.

A bit of peppermint tea and a route check. I am up, lead on. VS 4c, shadow wall 1*, super climb with a sting in the tail, green as hell on the shelf before you trend right. 

Great climb for a starter route, suns out now and it's starting to get a bit warm.  Bit more antics, decide to have a bash on (Master Blaster E1 5c) ok top rope out looks like sloper heaven. All the moves are in the bag after about five or six goes, that's for dean, me iam still trying to get the top move sorted, nails.

 

Might look big, but don't be deceived. The route is constantly trying to push you off, but a great route all said and done.

Right, now for the business, target (Wrinkled Wall) The Crease E1 5a. 

This has been on the wish list for a while, deans up and on the case. Ropes set and small cams in hand, not much in protection here.

 

Staying left of the obvious chimney. The route gets all of E1, after the midway point there's not much protection.

Happy climber, good lead by dean. Brew and a quick view of the vid.

http://youtu.be/egW9AH5AbFI

So, it's off for coffee at the Anglers rest pub in Bamford.

http://anglers.bamford.coop/

So another great day in the Peak District.

                                                    http://www.battleoats.com/

Oh, ps another Battle Oates bar was also consumed during the making of this climbing blog on location at Bamford edge Derbyshire.

Trafford centre on ROCK

Already committed, yep I know, I am only going to rant at the amount of people in the Peak due to the bank holiday. Oh well off we go to Stanage end slab. Turn left at High neb and walk for about 20 mins to the bottom end, well worth the walk.

Just got the last parking spot, whoop whoop.

Ok so it's off up the hill to have some fun. I've set my sights on Steamin E1 5b today, last climbed this route back in May 2012 with dean after been shut down on several occasions due to the weather. This route is great and wet at the best of times so it doesn't come into condition that often. There is a lot of run off from the moor top which saturates the nearby crag, and Steamin is right in its path.

There are a coupe of guys climbing the Pinion HVD to the right of Steamin so john and I decide to warm up on the buttress at the back called crab crawl. Notice the guy in the picture, he's wearing a belay jacket as it so cold on the face even thou the sun is out and beaming, not in the shadows thou. Prosperos climb is the warm up route at a steady Vdiff 2 star, nice route with good gear placements. I used double ropes on this route for ease, and it made sense as the route snakes over to the left then up onto the flat belay stance at the top.

Prosperos climb, number 14.

Sat on top in the hot sun you could see all the way to Ladybower reservoir and beyond, the scenary is stunning.

Ladybower in the distance.

So on comes john, first climb of the day. John makes easy work of this route, and he enjoys the layback on the flake at the top of the pitch, little exposed but he puts this one to bed with ease.

Wrapping up the rope, usual banter at the top. Ok, what do you fancy next.

Cup of mint tea in one hand guide book in the other. I fancy (The Green Streak) nice route at VS 4c, well within johns range. I gear up and head up the route, nice little finger presses and a mantle near the top. Sat on top with such an amazing view waiting for john. 

Super belay spot, comfy and very sunny.

Bingo, it's done.

Ok, now for the action. I've got my eye on Steamin E1 5b. Looks green but clean and dry. 

Steamin is to the left of shot, the overhang.

Gearing up, double ropes again on this route straight to the overhang then ran it out with extenders and a long sling to prevent rope drag on the crux move, the exit on the overhang.

Definitely don't want any rope drag here as it would ruin your day, it would make it very difficult to exit due to the nature of the move.

Steamin is route 3.

Well chuffed route goes well, just a bit of skin loss on the exit. The route was so sheltered that it was absolutely freezing under the roof, my hands were numb. Must have really raunched them on the top move.

Sat on top feeling good, what a great climb. I lean over and shout down to john, you fancy a crack. I am sure he swore or was it the wind, anyhow think he was happy on terra firma. So let's get the kit back. Set up an abseil then abb off down to retrieve my gear.

Just coming over the top to swing under the over hang and get the cams and extenders out.

Bit of 1st aid required, oh well. Pains short lived, glory is for ever.

Job done, so it's a well earned laze in the grass. What a super spot, the views are amazing.

A great days outing in the sun on some of the best routes in the Peak District.

Please come again

Windy Tors.

Quick walk up Mam Tor this morning, super windy and a severe wind chill. Wrap up warm, full winter kit required on the summits. Visibility low on the summits and approach paths, map and compass required. Take plenty of warm drinks and clothing if you are out on the tops today, looks like some challenging weather is approaching. Don't forget to let someone know were you are planning to walk and what route you are taking.

Looking towards Grindslow knoll and Edale village 10:30

Through the gap to Edale

Hollins cross

Windy tor, top of Mam tor.

http://www.mountain.rescue.org.uk/

Support Mountain Rescue England and Wales

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Misty wall with a pint of snake bite ?

Adventure ready to write, just need to get there. Roll on Friday.

Meeting in the middle

Setting off from Whaley bridge, destination Birchen edge. Deans still out on the road somewhere between here and Chesterfield on a job with Mockrock the climbing wall design and fit company (http://www.mockrock.co.uk/)

Quick text to let him know were we are and me and John are heading into sunshine and adventure. Parked up on the old Roman road just outside of Baslow, super spot with easy access to both Birchen and Gardoms.

Heading across the moor Dean calls, on my way. Excellent, me and john head down to the bottom end next to the monument.

First route, a nice little severe (Trafagar Wall S4b) very little kit to place on this one, easier to just solo it.

The wall started to get busy so we headed of down to (Promenade Direct HVD 4a) again super route, kit at the break which makes the route feel tenuous at times. 

Quick look down towards Topsail and it's clear, this has been on my tick list for a long time.

John catches a shot of me topping out over the crux.

At VS 4c this is a route you can do time and time again, one sling is all you need for the route as it's pointless wasting time on the lower section with gear you might as well just head straight into the cave. There is a fantastic thread runner under the crux, this is all that's needed, then it's just a long reach and a pop over the top to easy ground.

Dean arrives and new I was going to bag it before he arrived, yes, in the bag.

Dean on the exit move to easy ground.

Now we are off to Orpheus Wall HVS 5c, deans got his eye on this one. We had a quick go on this to try the moves before we did Topsail, hard start.

We try the moves with a spotter before we commit, deans got the moves linked at the bottom so he gears up and goes for the lead.

This is one of the hardest HVS climbs I know. The start is an absolute beast, then the middle section just wastes you away. However dean put this to bed in fine style, and absolute hats off to him.

My story is not so honourable, the start was absolute nails. I did manage the start, but it was bloody hard, then into the middle section. I decided to dino this as it was just sapping me out, so went for the pop and peeled straight off. Tried several times before going down, not my route today.

Dean nailing this route.

I am not nailing this route.

Ok off to get John a route in. Dean picks a super route for John (Emma's Temptation HVD 4c) great lead by john, with no issues.

Dean spotting John on the first move.

Johns topped out and Deans on second.

All in all a great day out with a super finish at the Moon pub in Stoneymiddleton.

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel_Review-g5113909-d5113592-Reviews-The_Moon_Inn-Stoney_Middleton_Derbyshire_England.html

Six till six

                                                        PROTIEN BARS

                                                http://www.battleoats.com/

Bet he was surprised, 

Surprised,yep from my answer on the text return. Roaches, ok, bet dean thought ruddy eck.

Ok what's odd about that, lots. Cos anyone who knows me, nows I hate crowded climbing areas, and the roaches fits that bill.

Heading up to the top tier

Anyway, dean pulled a blinder as he had already done the maths and come up with the best section ever (Alpha area) so off up Breakfast problem Vdiff. Great route, great warm up.

                                       

       

                                                          Don Whillans Hut

          

Checking out the hut for future use.

Next we decided to hit some hard problems. Formative years E3 6a, San melas E3 5c. All done on top rope to learn the moves ready for the lead in the next couple of days. So basically a 6a and 5c problem. We also had a bash at Hallow to our men 6b route, mega hard,back another day.

John cashed in on this opportunity and sent both problems without much issue. John has moved on with some serious effort going into these routes. Super leads on the horizon for john, looks like a good year coming up.

John making easy work of Breakfast problem.

San Melas, left start to middle then right and top out. E3 5c.

Dean topping out, well earned.

For me I was eager to get on with the routes, started up Breakfast problem and veared over to the left when oy what you doin. Dean saw my plan to get a crack at Formative years and tracked me back to breakfast. Anyway we warmed up and set the ropes up on what you've already read above. Prior to warming up I crashed the Battle Oates ready for the energy burst needed. Battle Oates and peppermint tea, great mix.

Oh look, BIG bar BIG rock?

The Battle Oates keep me goin strong. Started work at 06:00 this morning, then off on the crag at 14:00 hrs. Energy levels stayed well up, should tackle the old muscles from aches in the morning as it tells me on the wrapper. 

Teas up.

Back on the game and top rope set up for a run up Hallow 6b.

Tricky start, and tricky moves all the way. This route is a route to aspire to, she's no easy date.

Hallow starts on the right at the mouth under the nose.

All in all a great afternoons climbing with some great routes to return to.