Just got the last parking spot, whoop whoop.
Ok so it's off up the hill to have some fun. I've set my sights on Steamin E1 5b today, last climbed this route back in May 2012 with dean after been shut down on several occasions due to the weather. This route is great and wet at the best of times so it doesn't come into condition that often. There is a lot of run off from the moor top which saturates the nearby crag, and Steamin is right in its path.
There are a coupe of guys climbing the Pinion HVD to the right of Steamin so john and I decide to warm up on the buttress at the back called crab crawl. Notice the guy in the picture, he's wearing a belay jacket as it so cold on the face even thou the sun is out and beaming, not in the shadows thou. Prosperos climb is the warm up route at a steady Vdiff 2 star, nice route with good gear placements. I used double ropes on this route for ease, and it made sense as the route snakes over to the left then up onto the flat belay stance at the top.
Sat on top in the hot sun you could see all the way to Ladybower reservoir and beyond, the scenary is stunning.
So on comes john, first climb of the day. John makes easy work of this route, and he enjoys the layback on the flake at the top of the pitch, little exposed but he puts this one to bed with ease.
Wrapping up the rope, usual banter at the top. Ok, what do you fancy next.
Cup of mint tea in one hand guide book in the other. I fancy (The Green Streak) nice route at VS 4c, well within johns range. I gear up and head up the route, nice little finger presses and a mantle near the top. Sat on top with such an amazing view waiting for john.
Super belay spot, comfy and very sunny.
Ok, now for the action. I've got my eye on Steamin E1 5b. Looks green but clean and dry.
Steamin is to the left of shot, the overhang.
Gearing up, double ropes again on this route straight to the overhang then ran it out with extenders and a long sling to prevent rope drag on the crux move, the exit on the overhang.
Definitely don't want any rope drag here as it would ruin your day, it would make it very difficult to exit due to the nature of the move.
Well chuffed route goes well, just a bit of skin loss on the exit. The route was so sheltered that it was absolutely freezing under the roof, my hands were numb. Must have really raunched them on the top move.
Sat on top feeling good, what a great climb. I lean over and shout down to john, you fancy a crack. I am sure he swore or was it the wind, anyhow think he was happy on terra firma. So let's get the kit back. Set up an abseil then abb off down to retrieve my gear.
Just coming over the top to swing under the over hang and get the cams and extenders out.
Bit of 1st aid required, oh well. Pains short lived, glory is for ever.
Job done, so it's a well earned laze in the grass. What a super spot, the views are amazing.
A great days outing in the sun on some of the best routes in the Peak District.
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