Nowanda revisited

Super night out at Gardoms edge over looking the wonderfull Chatsworth  valley to run a couple of routes.

Chatsworth Hall Estate (http://www.chatsworth.org/)

                                    Fig 1

A little bit of top roping later in the evening.

Running prusik loop on a sling for protection at the top when you are setting up and de rigging.(Fig 1)

Moyers buttress, E1 5b.

First section on Moyers.

A super piece of history, one of the old mill wheels.

Then off round the corner to Och Aye Wall Indirect.

Super route at VS 5b, not to be missed. Just keeps on giving all the way to the top.

Me,ed on second. Great route and a good second route for anyone.

Looking back down the crag.

Ok, pub time.

Stopped at the old Hall Hotel in Hope.

http://www.oldhallhotelhope.com/oldhallhope/index.html

The lost land of Nowanda

Hiding in the bracken and immensely over grown Gardoms Edge. Wow, the recent weather has certainly made a difference to the landscape, its just exploded in vegetational growth.

Well as you will be well aware, you get chatting and things start to gather pace and before you know it your half way down the crag. Laughing out loud, here's me telling John try to stay away from walking under the crag as it's really hard going due to the large amount of boulders and low dense woodland. What did we end up doing, yep back tracking through the dense woodland. Oh well alls good, it's like a Druids wood at any moment a wizard or just some bonged up boulderers will appear.

First route, wow what a find. Rarely travelled I would say (Gardoms Gate VD) what an amazing route. Climb this all day long, super start with a nice run out to an overhang then a traverse round to the left with a super finish to the top.

Nice deep gear placement under the overhang for the traverse round.

Out from the overhang, traverse round and up to the belay stance.

Really enjoyed this route, not many people have been up this for a while as there was lots of vegetation on the way.

Route starts to the right then comes past the tree midway under the overhang then round and out.

The next route is johns lead. Corner crack Diff 10m, super route with a little crux moved in the middle over a small overhanging block.

Nice bit of flexing going on here.

Looking down Cave Gully from the top of Corner Crack.

Safety first.

Corner crack can be belayed from a tree or block belay about 15ft from the top, which is sensible when you arrive at this point. However the exit is over blocky terrain and very glass like grass. So, we ran it out as a second pitch with a sit/foot jam belay just to protect the last man up.

A slip here would have resulted in a trip in the blue light bus.

Next up, the VS sand bagger (Attraction VS 5a)

So, it's my lead. Had my eye on this route from the start. A real green vegetated route, not travelled often. The first section is a bit scarce for gear with a small wire for protection on the left of the bulging arête.

A side view, big blocky climb. Made the first rock over with ish ease. Certainly committing. So up to the next section, which from the ground looks easy ish. The next rock over is covered in lichen. Not much to grip onto here. The next move is a big push to a crimpy hold. All in all a super route, the route needs a good cleaning as it hasn't been climbed in a long time, so a brush will have to be taken up on the next lead. This route is one for the books, must admit didn't think it would be as good as it was.

So time for tea.

Seven days into 70 words

Heading up the motorway for a bit of rock scouting and climbing, un u bit uh bouldering.

Late evening cragging in Naddle valley.

Wodens face Borrowdale. Super single pitch crag.

Abseil point at Quarry foot Quarry Borrowdale.

Looking back up.

So, it's off to the Works Drytooling venue. Winter training ground.

All climbs are bolted and super safe.

St Bees bouldering (rockfax)

Over to St Bees for some great bouldering.

Rock art.

Traversing on the sea walls at Whithaven.

Great over hang problems

Back to honister pass and the route below (6a+) number 4, nails got halfway up. Sit start remember.

Met up with some other climbers.

Me on the arête

Off up Hellvelyn to Brown Cove to have a look at Two Grooves, winter route.

Winter, March 2014.

Me on lead, IV (6) super climb.

OK 122 WORDS THEN.

Ants in yah pants

Pants ants and chief sitting ant in the woods. Ok, not so much chief, more brave ish as we will see in a mo.

Justin chillin in the Derbyshire heat at Yarncliffe quarry. 

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=110

So what went on at Yarncliffe with (PAC) Peak Athlete Climbing. I think there was a lot of un certainty in the car, were we goin, what we doin type of stuff. Well cliff (ed) I reckon you came into this journey. Cliff is my MLT trainer. Cliff Lowther of Roxcool. http://www.roxcool.co.uk/ set the scene with a great trip through the Peak District National Park. Arrived at the crag, wow only one car at the gate. Chat, bag grab out of the boot and we are off up the road into the quarry. So Cliff, yeh I did the chat around local ecology and the history around the quarry and rock type. 

Justin trying the balance trick, not sure what the fingers doing, maybe a balance thing.

So warm up done, let's get climbin.

Easy setup at the top, super belays. Trees are the best, rock solid, just as we trained for cliff.

Protection is key, always cover the danger points. 

Right, the guys are pretty keyed up, ready to climb. We are starting on Ants Crack 4a. The guys have no issues here. A super route with lots of give, it gives good information as to individual climbing styles. John excels on the crimpy wall and Justin makes good progress on the initial start.

John making easy work of Ants Crack upper reaches. So how did Justin fare,

Justin has good posture, and has a good level of skill in rock- overs. There is lots to share in climbing, john has a toolbox of tricks well earned over the last two seasons. One season in the Peak and a second in Norway learning the tricks of the trade in pure blue water ice climbing.

So all in all a great afternoon out. I think this will be a start of a new life style for Justin, he seems to excel in this craft. The great thing about climbing Cliff, as you well know, it brings the best out of people. Justin and John have a mutual stand point now, mutual trust. I hope this will grow, and if it does (PAC) will be here to support.

Ok, the tough stuff. Let's get pumped, (Aphids Wall E1 5a.)

The Beard is crankin on this route, all dials well sinked. John sends this route on top rope with no issues. Well done john.

Justins cranking hard on the first section, lots to learn here. Crimps, not as easy as you think. Alls good, as it shows you were the training need is. Mega effort here by Justin, well done, good effort.

Ok, lots of chat un talk could be done here, but hey that would spoil your own adventure. So book onto one of our courses and enjoy the same highs these boyz have.

A great end to the day, cuppa coffee un cake @ the outside shop. http://www.outside.co.uk/ any gear question chat to James or John in the shop always there to help.

So, random collection of shots.

Next BLOG will come from the Lakes, keep in touch.