Bacon sandwiches and porridge consumed and it's off to Krokan. Or should I not say (Top rope street)
All the way down the crag was enthused with Top ropes. Lots of people out today, typical Sunday.
All in all a very satisfying day, didn't expect to complete as many superb routes as we did. John and myself headed of down to a nice little WI2 to get john back into the swing, to regain his mojo after loosing it over the last couple of days.
Dean and Cliff moved off towards the top end of the crag towards the bridge and started on an unknown route at around WI5 at the right side of Gaustaspøkelse.
John came up on second with a regained mojo in his pocket, but preferred to stay at the one route. The route was nice but no technicality in it. When I got to the anchor point and set in waiting for john we were joined by a second team which made it quite snug up there. All in all a nice warm up route.
Ok, now to the business, set off down the crag to find a free spot. Every were at the inn was full, top ropes every were. However we met a team which we had chatted to the previous day. Chatting away and me looking towards a vacant, very steep section of ice between the tope ropes. The chap said, ah yes someone tried that earlier, got half way due to the thin ice and the fact it was a curtain of ice backed off at around ten feet up. Oh dear, that was a red rag to a bull. I cut a stance in front of the route which instantly caused attention. Then started to coil the ropes ready for action. John was a bit concerned at this point, r u doin it, yep u bet. Chunner chunner chunner comes back from john. Tied on and the first axe goes in straight through. Quite thin as the guy said, oh well. Second axe in,alls good. Up at around 15ft and the first screw goes in, big lean back and hang on the axe, fairly steep pitch. Second screw and it's up over the shoulder and heading for the belay stance. The stance is set back inside a little cave, amazing.
Looking out of the cave at the hanging strap coming down off the anchor point, this is attached to a 4inch branch sticking out of the ice.
Looking out of the cave towards john below.
Route complete and it's off to find Dean and Cliff. The boys are waiting for Gaustapoleske as a couple of chaps from Bergen are running the route. The guys jump straight on a complete the route in good style, I hop on as third man to get the route in. We all abseil off and head off to the route next door. Dean knocked off the route, De killer meg fjard M7. Mixed route leading out onto the ice at around 25ft up. Cliff took second and I came up third but took the direct route up the ice face (Topp WI5).
Dean an me going double on the rope, c u at the top.
Cliffs waiting at the stance.
All safely down on the ground we make up the gear and head off back to the car. Due to all the heavy snow during the day we all expected the car to be under snow, not to be. The car is clear and we head off into town for coffee and cake. That's the end of the climbing for me and john, it's been a superb week with new skills being passed on by cliff to an ever greatfull team. Dean and Cliff are here to stay for a further week so further BLOGS will be heading your way.
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