OMG its DT heaven

Saturday morning arrived after a full week of earlies, one more get up. This ones a bit different, we are off to WALES. The drytooling location we are off to has been given the premier site in the UK tag, so we are off to see for ourselves. Ps, the bloody car is solid in frost. It's about -5 here in the Peak and the bloody car door won't open.

First things first, brek,brek . Unbelievable  I made a bit of a location calculation cock up. The cafe we were going to was no where near were we were going. Oh well not to worry, as it turned out we got the better result. We ended up in Betsewycoed at a super cafe near the railway,what a great find.

And the breakfast was super good. http://www.alpinecoffeeshop.net/

Yummmmmmm yumm yummmmmy.

So breky over, off to DT heaven.

Moving away from Betsy and into some stunning mountain scenery.

Take the road out from Trefriw up the hill in front of the Fairy Falls Hotel.

http://www.visitllandudno.org.uk/things-to-do/food-and-drink/the-fairy-falls-p285611

Then follow the road to the very end past Llyn Crafnant, and park through the gate. Remember to be curtious and respect the local environment.

Follow the route on the card in UKC, and don't stra off into private land.

An amazing transformation as you drive from Trefriw village to Clogwyn Mannod. The change in landscape is awesome, flat flood plain to majestic mountains and typical Welsh crags. 

So, let's find some parking. Parking is a bit scarce but available in small quantities.

Passing, parking place.

Tools of the trade in hand, and we are off up the hill.

The track leading upto the crag.

Alls looking good.

Yep, if you wanna climb here this is the way in. Tight un very ohhhh long way down. No scaff tag required.

Yep, it's uh big un.

Tom belaying Pete on the Dragons lair M8+

A couple of guys climbing, Pete Harrison and a chap called Tom from plas y brenin.

Yep, that's a FBW. SOMETHING BIG WALL.

The pictures don't capture the awesome size of these walls. If you reckon your up for it, get yourself down here. This place is an absolute credit to the guys who found it and bolted it, one guy for starters who we met is Pete Harrison. The walls here are 30 meter plus, with extensions out to make longer routes. The whole place is a Mecca for major run outs, not found anywhere else.

This is the way in, a long decent into the pit via a notted line.

Super ferns in the cave area.

The only light, window to the outside world.

 

Me on Slate O the art, after my initial lead. We are doing sets of three to get burned out.

Finding the pre drilled pockets is tricky as the whole wall is wet and dark, not easy to see the pockets.

Dean high up in the gods, coming down after one of his sets of three burn runs.

First route of the day, (Slate O the art) M5+ . Well graded, and certainly worth its star.

Belay stance in the bowls of the cave.

One great bit of information, I didn't take much food on the trip. Well in fact it amounted to one CHIA CHARGE http://www.chiacharge.co.uk/ bar, (seed flapjack) between two. So one bar is a bought 80g, split two ways. We lead an M5+  25 meters ish each then did sets of three up and down the route to burn out, and I must admit it kept us going all the way, well impressed.

Super bar, and tastes great.

Admit, not many pictures of us climbing, this is due to another cockup. Còckup number two, always bring the lead which connects power pack to phone. Oh yeh, plus take less shots leaves more power in phone for later, lesson over.

We ran slate O the art as a lead route first, then ran it out in set of three. The sets of three were to burn out and get pumped. By the time we had done two leads and six runs we were pretty well out of time. Dusk was on its way, time for home. This is an area we will be back to, lots of un finished business here.

Now it's off to buy pies http://www.bodnant-welshfood.co.uk/