Eggs bacon, fill up with fuel at Bamford then off to Burbage South. Car park yields a space, were in. Off up the track towards the quarry and it's ruddy cold. Would be easy to turn back and go to the Outside shop for coffee.
South Quarry, Burbage South
(4) Fox House Flake VS 4b 2*
South Quarry Burbage, end wall.
The Fox House Flake is a route Dean has been after for a while. Last year we arrived to find a mini amazon flowing down it. Never got back to it due to other adventures being undertaken.
We racked up and took our rock shoes out of our Coates were they had been warming. Shoes on and Deans off up the crack in good style. Out of the crack and into the layback then out on top, and SAFE comes the shout. My turn, up the crack and into the layback position. Great climb, meet Dean on top and we rap up the rope and walk off chatting about the next route.
Next leads mine, a route we eyed up back in the summer of 2013, Dunkleys Eliminate VS 4c 2*.
Wow what a superb route, I started the run from the starting point of Millwheel Wall, then trended left onto DE. Once on the ledge the route ran straight up, well actually it didn't. Reading the route well from the ground can make all the difference. Anyway, placed my second piece of kit, bomber cam then made my move, or not. Didn't feel good, so back climbed about 4 ft to better holds re looked at the route. Yep, obvious trend left onto the very exposed arête then move up on bomber holds. No more gear needed after this, the last 10ft is just top out moves, no point in hanging around getting pumped trying to put a fiddley wire in.
The arête feels really exposed when you trend left onto it, the boulders below can be rather intimidating
Cups of peppermint tea all round and it's off to check out another climb (No Zag E15b) top roped this route as we were pretty cold by now and the old hands were a bit grip less. However Dean nailed the route without much problem, I need to work on my hand jammin on crack routes. Bonus, was a super little nut which had been left in situ. Now it's in situ in our gear store, cheers climber person.
All in all a great days climbing in the Peak District.
No comments:
Post a Comment