Monday, 26 May 2014

Three men in a motor

 Heading off to Froggatt to get some sunshine on Sunset Slab.


The team stomping up the track from just below the pub. Combined age of around 134 years, oh my god were lucky to be even walking let alone climbing. No wonder deans hangin back.


Right boys this is the plan, hang on a min let me get a can out ( personnel joke)


First route in, is the old favourite Sunset Slab HVS 4b. Super route and a great lead by Dean, not that he hasn't done this many times before. 


Dean on the first main ledge before the layback and the tenuous top out. Great route just got to layback on the crux and get your feet in the right position, he says. Must admit I forgot this one, had to re adjust, alls good.

So john it's all yours mate.


Right, yes, ok then. Tell ya wat.

Ok,go on then, what.

So while we're waiting for WHAT to arrive I decide Sunset Cracks gonna av it. And avit she did.


Take that you slabby thing. Right your up john, first route since last sat. Nerves are tense, go on my son you can do it. See BLOG (No Title) if you don't get the pun, just leave it there.

Dean decides he gonna lead Sundowner E2 5a, super route with a fluttery heart at the side of it in the Roxfax book, well earned.


Dean cruises this route with ease, iam looking at the jump from the belay spot to the ground to take out the slack, IF he slipped. Maybe he didn't see the rucksacks piled up on the rocks below me, not for you boy ow, for me. The belay stance on this route is about 10ft off the ground so in the event of a fall the belayer has to jump off, dad's eh, do anything for there sons, even jump off ledges.


Gear remover.


Well bugger me, metaphorically speaking of course. Step up to the plate, BIG John B. Stand out of the way boyz this routes mine. Big john decides he gonna give Sundowner the once over, yep it on. Johns away up the route in good style. No issues here, nice foot work and a little bit of GURRING by all accounts as Dean will tell. 


This routes graded as E2 5a on lead, however hats off to John for a very clean second, proud mate.

BIG PAUSE

No we ain't goin home, let's head off to Downhill Racer Area. Deans got a glint in his eye and the grits itchin him on this route. I mess about on Trapeze Direct at a nice healthy grade of HS 4c while Dean paces the ground wearing a groove in the floor looking up at Long John Slab E3 5c. Guaranteed not to knock ya shins on the way down on this one, smooth, smoother than smoothy things. So, me un John stop playing around on Trapeze, however must say its a great route with a super crux. Real sand bagger I must admit for the un wary.


You ain't gonna sand bag beardy thou, he's well on its case. Beardy the CRUX muncher.


Right, now to some serious climbing. Deans up for getting the moves linked on this one then it should just be a case of pads un style. 


This is no mean feet, it's absolutely Ffffffffkkkkkkkin nails. Comes in at 5c, don't knock it it a bloody hard 5c, try before you buy job, or comment.






No probs, job done. Dry day, bit of wind and it'll go. Ps here's my shitty attempt.


Yep, that's it. Bloody hard. Just carnt understand why the old legs don't understand what the brain is telling them. Lift, place move, ok what's the problem with lift, or even place. Think Yoga may help.

Right, the Moon it is. No not that Moon, the moon which sells bitter un stuff.


Three pints of your best landlord, haw haw haw.

http://www.themooninnstoneymiddleton.co.uk/

For information. NO cans of MTFKUP were harmed whilst climbing these routes.

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