Return to Masson lees

Saturday saw a trip out to Masson lees nr Matlock Derbyshire, 45 min trip through the Peak District from home over some of the most picturesque landscape in England.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67501

First rule of Drytooling, put the clip stick in the van. Yep, forgot the stick. So, first route on lead for the season was the super route left of the main wall called (Warm up) M4.

Bottom looking up shot, just lead the route and clipped into the top chain.

We stayed on this route running reps all afternoon, two runs each. We will up the anti as the season progresses, Rjukan is booked for last week in January so we need to get some serious training done.

Looking out of the cave.

The great thing about Masson, it's always dry due to the massive over hang in the roof.

Next task is to remove the aggressive front points off my DT boots, they keep locking in the pockets whilst moving up the crag. Short points are required.

So back from Masson feeling good after a great day out with Dean. Watched Eric Mowhinkle

https://vimeo.com/64010387

So, into the loft to re produce the tools for success.

Watch the video, great training aid along side regular visits to Drytooling venues.

Keep training, it pays off in the end.

Trafford centre on ROCK

Already committed, yep I know, I am only going to rant at the amount of people in the Peak due to the bank holiday. Oh well off we go to Stanage end slab. Turn left at High neb and walk for about 20 mins to the bottom end, well worth the walk.

Just got the last parking spot, whoop whoop.

Ok so it's off up the hill to have some fun. I've set my sights on Steamin E1 5b today, last climbed this route back in May 2012 with dean after been shut down on several occasions due to the weather. This route is great and wet at the best of times so it doesn't come into condition that often. There is a lot of run off from the moor top which saturates the nearby crag, and Steamin is right in its path.

There are a coupe of guys climbing the Pinion HVD to the right of Steamin so john and I decide to warm up on the buttress at the back called crab crawl. Notice the guy in the picture, he's wearing a belay jacket as it so cold on the face even thou the sun is out and beaming, not in the shadows thou. Prosperos climb is the warm up route at a steady Vdiff 2 star, nice route with good gear placements. I used double ropes on this route for ease, and it made sense as the route snakes over to the left then up onto the flat belay stance at the top.

Prosperos climb, number 14.

Sat on top in the hot sun you could see all the way to Ladybower reservoir and beyond, the scenary is stunning.

Ladybower in the distance.

So on comes john, first climb of the day. John makes easy work of this route, and he enjoys the layback on the flake at the top of the pitch, little exposed but he puts this one to bed with ease.

Wrapping up the rope, usual banter at the top. Ok, what do you fancy next.

Cup of mint tea in one hand guide book in the other. I fancy (The Green Streak) nice route at VS 4c, well within johns range. I gear up and head up the route, nice little finger presses and a mantle near the top. Sat on top with such an amazing view waiting for john. 

Super belay spot, comfy and very sunny.

Bingo, it's done.

Ok, now for the action. I've got my eye on Steamin E1 5b. Looks green but clean and dry. 

Steamin is to the left of shot, the overhang.

Gearing up, double ropes again on this route straight to the overhang then ran it out with extenders and a long sling to prevent rope drag on the crux move, the exit on the overhang.

Definitely don't want any rope drag here as it would ruin your day, it would make it very difficult to exit due to the nature of the move.

Steamin is route 3.

Well chuffed route goes well, just a bit of skin loss on the exit. The route was so sheltered that it was absolutely freezing under the roof, my hands were numb. Must have really raunched them on the top move.

Sat on top feeling good, what a great climb. I lean over and shout down to john, you fancy a crack. I am sure he swore or was it the wind, anyhow think he was happy on terra firma. So let's get the kit back. Set up an abseil then abb off down to retrieve my gear.

Just coming over the top to swing under the over hang and get the cams and extenders out.

Bit of 1st aid required, oh well. Pains short lived, glory is for ever.

Job done, so it's a well earned laze in the grass. What a super spot, the views are amazing.

A great days outing in the sun on some of the best routes in the Peak District.

Please come again

Ibuprofen groove

Leaving work the sun is shining, it's going to be a great day on the rock. Tom is finally coming out today to stretch his rock legs, never climbed before, but is keen to learn. Johns got some ghosts to put to bed, so all in all should be a good day.

Different play all together, within 10 mins of climbing out comes the ibuprofen 400mg, oral insertion. Toms in pain, he discovered that an old injury hasn't heeled up and after trying to pull himself up the rock face has made it worst (8 out of 10) on the pain score. Seemingly he fell on kinder at Xmas and severely injured his shoulder. since then he hasn't rested it enough, 3 months is not long for shoulder injuries to disappear. 

Tom receiving some instruction from dean prior to the ascent.

Tom was lowered down the gully above in the picture and was unable to continue climbing.

John made a super ascent of his Diff nemesis with a clean lead on High Buttress arête 3 star (windgather)

John also lead a further diff which was of no problem to him. Well done, but about time. Ps keep drinking the cans(private joke)

So took Tom home in pain, not much to say, day over. Just to say big thanks to Dean for setting up a training session for Tom.