Rain Dodgers
Egg bacon mushrooms black pudding with sausage and a splash of HVS Vs sauce with a cup of peak sunshine to wash it down.
Full, off we go into the peak with a bit of a late start, 10:30. rocks drying, its all good. Headed out to Millstone edge for the North Bay. Had our eye on Estremo for a while but were beaten back last year with the wet weather every time we headed out to have a go at it.
Estremo is the obvious wide crack left of centre. OK kit on ready to go, first cam placed starting to hand jam up the crack. Head says maybe, hands say connection lost between hands and brain. At this point it is clearly obvious i am not a hand jamming crack climber. Oh well the ground isn't far away, and soon i am on Terra fer ma.
Quick exchange and Deans off up the crack replacing all my gear with better placed and a nice free placement with a strap round two jammed rocks in the crack which i had missed due to hand brain connection issues. Looking strong, up and into the corner with good protection when, BOOM, free space, feet apart with a great landing on the face, quick chuckle and a laugh and hes moving strong over the shelf on the right and into a very tight pill box. A couple of nice placements before exiting out onto the face for a superb layback and onto a top block and out on to the top. That sounds quick and easy you might say, my version.
Starting at the bottom, this time on second as i fluffed the first lead. Jamming up the crack, not bad seems ok. Get near the main move for the right hand slap on the shelf, no brain connection error again, i am off on the face. Oh well, feet in the crack back up, lean out get the slap on the shelf and over up into the pill box. Christ its shrunk or Ive grown, didn't look this tight at the bottom. Deans pulled a blinder here, great gear placement in the roof and on the face. Think i would have possibly pooped at this point, this was an excellent piece of climbing and well protected by dean.
OK deans passing down some good tips on making the next layback up the block above. Of course i listen but do it my own way any way, yep didn't work,shit idea. OK say that again, right into the layback and alls good, strenuous but good. Top of the lay back and slap onto a block on the right, up and out.
Bloody hell that was Bombardier (Full on) Excellent lead.
Down and back to camp Doogle, ie doogle the dogs napping point.
Plexity HVS 5a
Future climb
North Bay
My lead this time, Remembrance Day VS 4c.
Remembrance Day
Centre of picture
Superb climb with great gear placements, nice climbing. Topped out and deans on his way up. Coffee time at the outside shop as the rains coming in fast.
Gear bagged up and back to the car, just beat the rain. Another great days climbing in the Peak
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