Rjukan day one

So, day one. Weather forcast has given -14, not sure it looks like -14 from inside the hut. Ok, it's definitely cold as we exit the hut and start loading the car.

But before that a little bit of pre climbing entertainment.

The cold is definitely bitting now.

The little cars looking good, no three foot slab of snow on it so alls well.

Well Cliff,John our old hut is allocated to someone else this year. We definitely got a willy wonka ticket this year as we bagged a four man hut for the price of a two.

Anyway were did we get too today, Krokan the old favourite for a warm up day. Parked smart this year, experience pays off. Past the Krokan parking bay on the right and headed straight for the rd and 

parked in the gateway, cool loads of space and saved the slog up the rd.

Selfie at the car, reckon its definitely around -14 now, cutting on your face.

KROKAN

Checking out the climbs around Bullen area, interesting wander.The guide book today feels a bit more real, most of the climbs are looking like they were when originally taken and used in the production of the Heavy Water Rockfax guide. The routes this year are certainly thin,thinner than last year.

First route of the day, Scottish gully. Dean on lead, deans on the right, unknown Italian guy on the left. The route is logged as unknown in the guide book but Scottish gully looks and sound right, so that's how it is.

Next routes mine, nice little WI2. Ran this route last year, but is was smashed out with mega amounts of snow. This year it was clean so I took a right line up this route with a short near vertical section at the start. So probably put the route up to a nice WI3, at least.

Cliff, little bit of past SPA training technnique coming into play, nice, worked well.

                                      CLIMB ON

Ever heard red rag to a bull, well the rag is on the floor and it been picked up. Dean is up for a nice little bit of WI5, ps this was just after we had the chat, let's just use today as a warm up day. (What ever) the route were goin for has a little defect in it, not dean the crack in the bottom,I think this makes it free hanging. The route is classed as unknown in the guide, shame as it deserves a name, mega route and mega pumppy. The route is slightly over hanging, not easy to see your feet and the stack is also pretty thin. Steady climbing required due to the thinness, no mad kicking here, not today anyhow. So how did it go. The route was sustained and pumppy, snow banked out on the top of the stack to about 2ft. This made the move out onto the top sketchy, just had to go for it then get an axe in when you stood up on the top, that's the plan.

Dean working the moves on the first vertical section.

Yep, the snow on top is pretty thick and pretty shit. The ice beneath the snow is like a wave of new ice but but not very stable so it gives the impression you've got good axe placements. So route done abseil off and gears packed, we're off to have a look at Sabotørfossen WI5

Rucksack shot, new montane medusa 35 lt. Ace piece of kit, uber amounts of stowage. I just love the pole and axe holders, work really well and easy to load.

Wandered over to Vermork bridge, Vermorbrufoss vest is very thin and very steep.

A quick thrash through the woods to check on sykehusfossen WI4, the route above the hospital.

Ok back to the coffee shop for a well earned coffee and sandwich.