Llanberis Slate
Preparation prevents piss pour performance, two ten pound notes and no shops for change. 09:30 on a Saturday morning in Worktown car park (Padarn) Llanberis, oh well. Quick rummage in the rucksacks and out comes some change, four pound coins just enough to secure the days climbing.
Rucksacks ready and loaded with gallons of water as its already hotting up, or would that be just to reduce the first levels from Petes Eats megga salty sausage and bacon devoured 20 mins earlier.
Heading out of the car park towards Electric mountain then a left straight up the hill side that any sherpa would be proud to ascend, bloody hell its steep.
Sherpa track
Jim Bob on the bridge
Nearing the next level after crossing the bridge we stop to check out the old climbers hut, one of the old cottages which climbers have re roofed, ish and made home. Dean takes Jim to have a look. Pulls the old battered door back, oh, sorry mate didnt no you were in there. A guy and his bird were rousting in there from the previous nights trek up. Friendly chat and the guy offering room in the inn and food if we wished plus room to stash our kit, really nice bloke, we passed on the offer as we were heading on up to Australia and Never Never Land.
The old Quarry mans cottages on the first tier
Moving on up again onto the next tier, really hot suns beaming down. The weather is amazing up here.
Arriving at Australia Lower we check out the routes, is an absolute myriad of climbs. after about half an hour of wondering and pondering we settle on a nice route U.B.L F4 Vs 4b 14m, you can pop a bit of trad gear in this but we, i didn't bother. My lead, off and up, first time on slate. Felt really weird, not like the grit back home, each move had to be really positive. Great climbing and a superb route, Dean and Jim followed and Jim was buzzin. Did a couple more routes up the slab using different hold to make the route harder whilst the rope was still in the lower off rings at the top. Next route was, Sad mans whos saneVs 4c 15m great route with a tricky little move above the second bolt.
We top roped a route called Gadaffi Duck F6b **. Dean made mince meat of this one, really tricky start with a mantle on the left to a stand then off right up the corner. However i never got to see the corner as i saw more of the ground on this route as i succummed to the pull of gravity each time i went for the mantle.
Gaddafi Duck is right side of the overhanging tree on the left side of the picture, The over hanging block, roof start is the crux, well done to Dean on a great move especially after his fight with nature the week before on a dislocated shoulder with Suprise at Stanage.
Moving on and up another tier to Steps of Glory F5b * 15m, great route with some nice moves especially at the top, little crimps and ledges.
Steps of Glory
Great area at the top with lots of superb routes, all in all a great day out and a classic finish at the Pen Y Gwrd Hotel for a pint.
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