Too hot for dogs

Too HOT 4 Dogs

Climbing backup plan, eat well and alls well.

Off to Stanage with Big John B today for a bit more trad climbing. Arrived at Stanage at around 10:30, blazing sunshine and wall to wall sun. The heat was almost to much to climb, but climb we did. moved on up towards the causeway and trended left out towards DIY and Counts Buttress. Started with a nice little Diff on Suprise (Diff 4a) called Dots Slab. interesting climb due to being a short vertical section into a right trending traverse with little gear on to a fat cigar shaped arete. Setup the belay in the middle of the traverse to give John a secure crossing and reduce the exposure of the runout.

Above the horizontal break from left to right then up the arete. picture far right John negotiating the arete.

Left  hand picture, Stumpy E1 5a starts off below the block then mantle over the shelf and onto the horizontal breaks straight up on smears and crimps, great climb. John came up on second and enjoyed the route. no issue with the climbing as it was great practice for his foot work.

Off down to Counts Buttress for a bit of corner climbing. Set off up B Crack HVD 4b one star route. Great route and worth the star all day long. John enjoyed the route as it pushed him up the grade system with a bit more concentration on the feet and hands being required. Nice bit of exposure to as it forced you out at the top to negotiate the crux move over the boulder wedged in at the top.

Johns clearly enthused by this one

Bit of a re hydration then off up the route. John negotiating the crux at the top.

Doogle finding a cool spot inside Counts Buttress

Dinner time using the new flameless cook set, superb.

Dinner out of the way and onto the next route, not sure of the name but looks like an E1 5b at least. One runner at quarter height then out onto crimps and a slap onto a rolled top, about 20ft quite bold but excellent route.Between Surprise Buttress and Counts Buttress.

The route goes up the centre of the crag, up the white slick to the right of the over hang.

John came up on second and clearly had an interesting climb, really pushed him to get his smearing technique spot on due to the angle and severity. All in all a great lead and a superb climb. called it a day at this as the heat wasjust to much, doogle had had enough and both me and john were ready for coffee and cake at the Outside shop in Hathersage.