Suprise

Surprise Surprise

E15c Crack Climb

Surprise is a HVS crack climb on Stanage above the plantation heading over towards the causeway. 

Fig 1

Great days climbing with a good route prior to the start of Surprise, Fern Crack Direct VS 5a lead by Dean. Wall End Slab VS 5a traverse for me. 

Unknown climber on Wall End Slab (Not Me, no picture available)

Comment from UKC

A devious classic. The frequently frustrating initial slab can be ascended in several places at 5a/b. From the ledge, climb through the bulge just to the right of the arete, to another ledge. Step down (low runners) and traverse across the slab to reach its right arete. Follow the right side of this to the top. Poorly protected although at least the upper section is steady. © ROCKFAX
FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s 1922 

Ok onto Suprise,my lead. Quick look at the guide book then off, literally off. Picked myself up off the floor, seriously hard start. re evaluated the moves, bang off again. Ok getting boring now, dean and i discuss the options, holds moves ect.  Bit of GURRING now, couple of moves, crimps and i am off and moving up and over the top onto the slab. Really pumppy move with no protection, you've just got to go with it.

Got to the second section, see fig 1. Looks good nice little lay back with a bit of crack hand jamming to boot. Well think again, just gets worst. I never climbed a harder climb, absolutely murderous. Apart from ripping skin from your hands that's the least of your worries. This is a really hard exit, took stock after falling off about 6 times. Decided to do what i would normally not sanction, but had to now the future. Pulled up on my gear to look over the top. Happier than a pig in shit, this is a nails of an exit. Small crack line leading up and out for about 20 ft, you need fingers about 2mm wide. Lots of grass in it, not seen alot of traffic, i wonder why. Came down and handed over to Dean. Up he goes, puts the first section straight to bed, no messing. on up the slab and into the crack. Here starts the fun, Dean suffers the skin flailing and cursing as i did. After a couple of pops he finally decides its over. Then out of the blue, no its not, hes on for another go. Sadly to say his last, gets over the prow and pop goes his shoulder in and out of its socket. Down he comes to the lip below the crack in lots of pain. After a bout 10 mins he manages to traverse off to the left and untie. I meet him on the ledge to the left and help him down.

First aid is out giving Dean some pain killers for his shoulder

Dean Phoning Mike (Dr Mike) for shoulder advice

Days over, kits away and i am lugging rucksack and boulder mat down to the car. Dean manages his rucksack but with a bit of difficulty. All i all a great day out and some superb climbing. Just unfortunate that Dean suffered a popped shoulder.

Comment of UKC

Really hard! given the unprotected start and hard 2nd half probably both with 5c moves it probably is more like E1 5c. Good moves though, worth a star though probably not the 2 given in the Stanage guide.

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Becky E