Monday, 5 May 2014

Master Blaster

Master Blaster E1 5c,Bamford edge special.

Here's the write up from Eastern Grit.

10m. The right hand side wall on poor sloping holds, to a final long reach for a shallow crack. Tiny wires for protection. Chris crags 1981.

This route has been a bank holiday project, went last weekend to Shadow wall and the Crease, we spotted Master blaster and instantly took a fancy to it.

    
                  

Climbed the route on top rope to link the moves together, not easy to get the sequence right straight away. So, dean made the link fairly quick and was ready for the lead but we decided to come back. 

Here startuth the story.

Returned back today, bank holiday Monday. Fairly quite, a few people already setup running some routes on loaders bay which is attached to Gun Buttress to the right of our beloved Master Blaster.

Quick chat, a few pleasantries and we've secured our spot. Dean goes up and sets up the top rope. Ok, we do a couple of runs up the wall to get the moves linked in our heads. We check out the gear placements while we do the climb on top rope. Deans ready, gear placed on the right gear loops on the harness to make placement easier.

 Top rope setup, pressures on. This is going to be a fantastic achievement if dean pulls it off. Rope and bits of kit placed onto the nasty bits of protruding rocks at the base of the route to protect dean in the event of a fall.



Blurry snap out of the video of dean moving past the crux move to good holds and protection, nice little cam placement just ahead.


Job done, the Roxcool pose to close it off.




My story, top roped the route, linked the moves and made two good runs straight up and past the crux   topping out on top, well chuffed. However, not ready to run it clean on lead. Need to practice the crux move, you don't want to make a mistake here as it would be your last. So it's time for home, it will wait till another day.

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