Yep I fell off, curbar has it's own magic. The place is one on its own, drop ya grade on this crag or it will feed you your ass on a plate.
Target, kayak E1 5b. Voted E2 5b on UKC. I am happy to go with UKC on this one. Hey not that I haven't run this route before, last year I made headway on this route but not to the extent of the lead. I top roped it and found the exit an absolute mare. So with the recent climb fest dean and I have had in the peak recently I thought, big mistake I was ready for kayak. Curbar is a crag we've climbed on many times, but still has the upper hand.



Impact zone, cleared all the bags away for the ascent. Dean spots me, I move up steady with good holds, then it's the big big reach for a horizontal shelf in a long like sloper style. I am pushing hard at this point to get my fingers on the sloper. All feels ok but I know it's a one way road, weird but still push on with confidence. I know I have security in that dean will catch me. Pulling up on thin holds I get to the crux move, pressing hard on finger ends I realise it's a false hope. The next move is a big slap up into unknown ground. Drop down on my fingers to relieve the pressure, go back for a second go, slap no slap, shit make ya mind up. Nope, it's not gonna happen. Back climb isn't an option, I've gone to far for that. So I drop down on my finger ends to try and smear back down. Newtons law takes over at this point, it's like falling down a waterfall. All I can see is rock passing in front of me, boom, the floor arrives like an elevator at speed. Dean spots me in the hips, I feel nothing. Next min I am on the floor moving fast towards the edge of the crag,and dean. I hit dean square on, he goes backwards towards the edge and a nasty landing. I reach out and grab his belay plate with my left hand, clamp, iam on it. Dean at this point is tittering on the edge of a downward slope into boulder and heather heaven.
END OF THE LESSON. CURBAR RULES.
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