Thursday, 1 January 2015

Cairngorms road trip


Leading on from a PM message I received from my good friend Cliff Lowther of Roxcool http://www.roxcool.co.uk/

Seemingley Dean and Cliff had discussed a climbing trip to Corrie an t'Sneachda 





So, here starts the story. No accomodation and just a couple of days to sort it out. Of course it's only one day before Xmas and most places in Aviemore will be either closed,shut,fully booked or just not answering. Not the case, the Old Bridge Inn Bunkhouse came up trumps. 2 bunks for three nights £150, Kurr Ching (PayPal). http://www.aviemore-bunkhouse.com/.

First we need coffee and nibbles at Starbucks.



So it's off to Uncle Cliffys house in Billingham to meet up stow gear and head off to Aviemore.


Just passing the Forth Bridge in the Cliffy mobile. 


The T5 just cruises along at a steady 60 mph with ease.


Deep into Scottish territory, snowy roads and super chilly sky's. We're not far from our destination, the bunkhouse. We need to find somewhere for Cliff to park up close by as he will be sleeping in the van.


Arriving at the Pub, discussion soon start around climbing and the en suing challenges ahead. Guide books are great, even better when you can see them. Seeing seems to be the issue lately, just another one of life's little piss takes. Glasses, yep forgot my bloody glasses, they are back in the bunkhouse. Oh well time to sit and look as if I know WTF is going on.


Dean and Cliff in deep conversation over attack and conquer tactics.


Fingers Ridge is the first port of call for Monday with the Seam targeted for Tuesday.

Setting stuff up for the morning in the bunkhouse kitchen, porridge and day old coisonts with a shot of stiff coffee.

Flask is a must, so a little pre warm up with some boiling water to take the chill off the flask. Mint tea and honey is the drink of the day.



Cliff bedding down for the night in the van just over the road in the pub car park. Couldn't have been a better place, right by the river.

Monday morning arrives and we are up at 06:00 ready for action. We head off up the road to the ski centre to park up and walk into the Corrie.


Fingers Ridge is Middle right of the picture.


On the way in we meet Simon Yearsley https://www.lyon.co.uk/outdoor/our-team/mountaineer/simon-yearsley


Great guy and always a pleasure to meet up with. So onwards and up wards, next chance meeting is at the foot of Fingers Ridge none other than Katy Forrester. http://dmmclimbing.com/blog/katy-forrester-boulderer-ice-climber/ first met Katy at the Works Drytooling venue in Coniston Lake District. So quick chat and we are off up to the stance, the stance is a tad tight with a big Boulder to our left. We kick in a stance and set our self up. The first setup is always the worst, takes time to get into the swing. The main thing is, set up well and all will be good, set up half hearted and all will end in tears, Basically get your shop in order.


Dean making the first moves on Fingers Ridge, pitch one.


Dean waiting for the team above to move on.




I think this is the third pitch, I am following Cliff leaving Dean to belay from below.


My turn to lead.


Dean disappears out of sight towards the Fingers and the final head wall.


Dean tops out and sets up the belay ready to bring me and Cliff up.

So, it's around 14:00 hrs and time to head down to the valley floor via the goat track. This track is pretty steep and requires a bit of technical axe and foot movement to prevent any nasty falls.


Sat back at the van in the car park with a glass of whiskey, fantastic end to a great day on the hill.


Time for tea aunt Sally. We headed off down to Papa Rocks for beer and burgers. http://www.paparock.org.uk/


The food,service,entertainment is fantastic here it's a credit to the place. We had a bit of entertainment via a family which had clearly had a bit to much ale. It started to get out of hand with loud jesticulations and FUUUUUUUUCK YOUUUUUUs going on. So bill paid and it's back to the Inn for more Ale. Arrived at the pub and found that the Ceilidh Trail were playing later on in the evening.

Ceilidh band at the Bridge Inn




Ok, it's bed time.

Rise un shine for a second day on the hill.


Arrived at the Seam, weather forecast gives 75 mph winds with rain and possible sleat, oh and -8 for good measure. Yep, may be a bit cold and wet. Dean heads off up the second pitch, this pitch is graded IV 6 not IV 4 as we are on the seam-stress next door and not the Seam as planned. The two routes go side by side and can easily be mistaken. All in all we got a more technical route with a super finish.




Cliff topping out at the top of the belay stance.

Gear checked and stowed in the rucksacks and it's off down the ridge and back to the van.


The sun disappearing over the ridge.

The next morning arrives and another early start back home in time for dean to head off to Bar and Grill in Alderley Edge for New Year celebrations. 



Looking over Loch Morlich.

So the trip was a great success with lots to take home. New ideas and techniques and a few things to improve on. But hey, that's with most trips, you never stop learning.


The final picture by Dean, different day different shoes. How the day changes.


                                                                     THE END



































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